Glycolic Acid & Lactic Acid. These 2 natural acids are also known as Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA). They are biologically occurring acids, derived from sugars in particular plants or in milk. Some examples are Glycolic Acid (Sugar Cane), Lactic Acid (Milk), Malic Acid (Apples), Citric Acid (Citrus Fruits), Tartaric Acid (Grapes), and Mandelic Acid (Bitter Almonds). These acids work at the very base of the stratum corneum, dissolving the cement that maintains devitalized skin cells together. This allows for an increase in cell turnover and modifies the structure of new stratum corneum being made.

Salicylic acid works from the uppermost layer of the skin, dissolving skin layer by layer. Salicylic acid is a chemical compound with the formula C6H4(OH)CO2H, where the OH group is adjacent to the carboxylic acid group. This colorless transparent organic acid is mostly used in organic synthesis and functions as a vegetal hormone. It is probably best known as a compound that is chemically alike but not identical to the active component of aspirin. The name comes from the latin word for the willow tree (Salix), from whose bark it can be obtained.

Commonly known as beta hydroxy acid (compare to AHA), salicylic acid is the basic additive in many skin-care products for the treatment of corns, callouses, acne, psoriasis, stretch marks, keratosis pilaris and warts. It heals acne by causing skin cells to slough off more quickly, preventing pores from clogging up. This effect on skin cells also makes salicylic acid an important ingredient in various shampoos meant to eliminate dandruff. Use of pure salicylic solution may leave hyperpigmentation on unpretreated skin for people with darker skin types (Fitzpatrick phototypes IV, V, VI), as well as with the lack of use of a broad spectrum sunblock.

Facial cleansers also contain Camphor. This is a biological compound taken from wood of the camphor laurel (Cinnamonum camphora), a huge evergreen tree found in Asia (specially in Borneo) and some other similar trees in the laurel family, notably Ocotea usambarensis. Camphor is quickly assimilated through the skin and produces a feeling of cooling comparable to that of menthol and acts as slight local anesthesic and antimicrobial substance.

Cleansers also contain a little Phenol, which is an organic chemical of the formula C6H5OH. Its composition is that of a hydroxyl group (-OH) linked to a phenyl ring; it is thus an aromatic compound. It has antibiotic and anesthesic properties.

When an alpha-beta facial cleanser is applied to clean oily skin the result is a more elastic, smoother skin, and a more even skin color.

A natural and chemical-free skin care product is the latest answer to all your skin ailments, from acne to major surgical scars.

- Marlyn Whipple

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